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Grooming

GROOMING FOR HEALTH AND SELF
ESTEEM
Grooming
is essential for Health and Self-Esteem.
A well-groomed dog is healthier
and aesthetically more pleasing to the eye. People love to muzzle nuzzle, hug, and walk proudly beside
them. They naturally get more
attention, which increases socialization and enhances self-esteem.
A well-groomed dog looks better, feels better and walks proud!
Your dog's
coat is
his crowning glory! Gleaming
hair with a lively, resilient bounce sets off your dog's fine qualities.
A healthy, shiny coat (coat applicable texture-wise) is an
indicator of good health & nutrition.
Coat and
skin care start from the inside with a
complete and balanced diet. In
addition to quality food products, exercise and regular Veterinary care
ensure a healthy dog.
Brushing
and combing are
essential to a healthy, glowing coat.
It eliminates mats and tangles, removes dead hair, dirt and burrs.
Brushing distributes the natural oils, producing a healthy skin
tone. We will elaborate on
this later.
Establish
a grooming routine as soon as your puppy
or adult dog comes home. Save
your back by using a bench or grooming table that does not wobble and is
of adequate height and size. A
rubber bath mat provides a non-slip surface for your dog.
Plus, it resembles the conditions that your dog encounters with
Professional Groomers and Veterinarians.
Secure your dog on the table and let him know that this is grooming
time. It's okay to be firm and don't laugh at behaviors you don't
want. Have a giggle fest, especially if grooming your own dog is a
goal.
Never
leave your dog unattended on the table. For larger breeds, a
step-up stool will assist getting the dog on and off without injury.
You want this to be a pleasant experience, so you will both enjoy
doing it often!
Keep first grooming sessions short.
It is essential to "desensitize" your dog slowly by accustoming
him or her to the procedures that are part of grooming. If you had a
spider phobia, would you want to be thrown into a room full of
spiders? Introduce clippers, nail grinders (noisy equipment) gently
and slowly, starting and stopping it. Keep one hand on him
for reassurance and to prevent scrambling for escape.
Talk calmly, massage the ears and ear flaps, brush a little, praise
and put her down. Do this
several times a week (daily if time permits).
You will discover that most dogs love the sensation of being
brushed, if it is done correctly, and with good equipment.
Mouth /
Ears / Nails:
In addition to the above daily routine, begin to gently touch (or
massage is even better) your dog's mouth, rub the ears and paws.
Get him accustomed to having his mouth opened for inspection.
Brushing
your dog's teeth alleviates tartar
build-up and promotes healthy gums. A
dog's lifespan ranges from 10 to 15 years. If you didn't have your teeth cleaned or brushed for that
amount of time, how would your teeth look, if you had any left?
How would your breath smell? It
would be pretty grim. Adult dogs accumulate tartar deposits along the gum line of their
teeth. This crusty,
unyielding material should be periodically removed, or your dog will have
foul breath, receding gums and may lose teeth prematurely.
Dog biscuits and dry kibble can help keep teeth
and gums healthy. Nylabones,
Gumabones and hard cow bones can help. If
the teeth or gums look red, infected or are bleeding, if the teeth are
accumulating tarter and plaque, then make an appointment with your
Veterinarian, where your dog can have their teeth professionally
cleaned. Do this also if you are too stressed to do the procedure
yourself. It isn't worth risking your relationship with your dog
over teeth cleaning. If you are doing this on your own;
bravo. Depending on the dog, how they chew and their overall health,
daily is great, weekly is good, and monthly is okay.
Our rule-of-thumb is when our dogs get older, if their eating habits
change, we always bring them to the Vet. Dogs get toothaches,
abscesses (which can be life-threatening) and gum disease just as humans
do.
Using a solution of good doggy toothpaste (or
Mentadent) and a soft toothbrush or terry cloth wrapped around your
finger, brush in a circular motion. Using warm water is more comfortable for the dogs.
in a
downward motion being mindful of the gums.
Do not over scale. Always use voice massage to calm the puppy or dog and praise
when allow your to do this.
Old dogs, in particular, can be suffering trying
to chew on rotted teeth. Bacteria
and toxins from infected teeth can affect their overall health.
Your dog cannot speak, but you should be able to tell by examining
your dog's teeth if the situation is healthy or not. Have their
eating habits changed? Head-shaking
and facial swelling often indicates an infected tooth and can be painful.
Bring your dog to the Veterinarian pronto.
Nails
should be clipped on a regular basis.
Some dogs get enough exercise on rough terrain to keep their nails
naturally worn down. Overlong
nails spread the paws which is painful and, in extreme cases, crippling. Neglected nails can snag fabrics, rugs, human skin, and cause
injury by getting torn off! How
often you trim depends on the dog’s activity level and necessity.
Nails are short enough when the dog stands squarely on his pads with the
nails bearing none of the support. A good nail length enables your
puppy to develop normally. For geriatrics, it is essential for
comfort, particularly if they suffer from arthritis.
Use commercial dog nail
clippers/files. Trim the
nails as often as needed with a good "quillotine"
or "plier style"
clipper. The "plier style" clipper, with two cutting edges, work best
on large and giant breed dogs (see Nail Clipping hand-out).
As the
nail grows in length, so does the blood supply.
A vein runs about three-fourths of the way through the nail.
Be careful not to cut this vein called the "quick".
It is difficult to trim a long nail to its normal length, at one
time, without causing bleeding. Trim a safe amount and repeat trimming at 7 to l0 day
intervals. The blood supply
should recede. Gradually
reduce the nails to their normal and safe length.
In white
nails, you can see this fine pink line.
In black nails, trim a
little at a time. A circular
pattern that resembles the bark of a tree appears when you are getting
close to the quick. On the
back of the paw, under the nail is a meaty-like section.
This is the blood supply. If
you misjudge, don't panic. You
will only upset the dog. Apply
a "styptic powder" or "kwik
stop" immediately.
Stay calm. The
bleeding will stop. Remember
to cut the dewclaws, which grow above the paws on the inner leg.
These never have a chance of being worn down. They can curl around and cut into the skin.
Keep ears clean
and dry.
Check them at least once a month.
If you smell any "foul" odors, or
your dog scratches his ear excessively, rubs it against the floor, or
tilts his head to one side, see your Veterinarian pronto.
Infections often settle deep within the ear canal and need to be
treated immediately. Use a
good otic solution (e.g. Novalsan, Oti-Cleanse).
Apply liberally into the ear canal.
Massage the base of the ear gently.
Clean accessible portion of ear with a CLEAN, dry terry cloth,
cotton ball or pad. Wrapping
the terry cloth around your finger can make it easier.
Do not poke too deep. Dry
the ear thoroughly. Allow
your dog to "shake-out" the excess solution.
Put the shake on cue by shaking your hand back and forth.
Moisture breeds bacteria that can cause infection.
Dusting with an antiseptic powder after cleansing is optional, but
may help prevent infection.
Begin with your slicker brush or pin brush by gently
parting and brushing the coat. If
your dog misbehaves, say "WRONG"
or "EH". When
he stands calmly, praise profusely. You want this to be a pleasing
experience, without challenge! If s/he continues to
"act-out", s/he may need more sensitizing, you need to relax or
have a professional do the job.
Work in
small sections and alternate between your
brush and comb. Using the
comb sideways, you can work small mats out of the coat.
It helps to separate the mats with your fingers.
Use your rake for tougher tangles.
Use your scissors, or a mat splitter, carefully cutting downward,
away from the skin, through tough mats.
Brush and
comb down to the skin, not just the
topcoat. Pick up the legs,
ears, and tail. Don't forget
underneath! On longer,
double-coated breeds, brush the coat against the grain.
This will lift and separate the coat.
Check
between the pads of the paws. Trim excess hair under the paws & around the pads.
Use your finger to ease hair up from between their toes.
Trim excess hair. If
you prefer, trim unruly hair around ears and face.
A thinning shear gives a more natural look.
Use your snub nosed scissors around the ears and eyes.
Use common sense and a keen eye to give your dog an overall neat
appearance.
How Often
Should I Bath my Dog? It
depends on your situation. Show dog people bathe often, but
condition the dog too. Family dogs should be bathed when necessary.
A dog's skin and pH is different from ours.
They do not need to be bathed daily.
Sometimes a good brushing with a quality dry shampoo, H20
and/or sprits of leave-in conditioner will add gloss and a pleasant
fragrance.
Bath your
dog with a quality shampoo only
(preferably natural). Ensure
that the shampoo is suited to your dog's particular coat texture.
If you have seen fleas, a good quality flea shampoo is
necessary. Creme rinses and
conditions are a matter of preference.
Be sure to rinse thoroughly.
Certain
breeds may need professional grooming to
keep their coats and trims in optimum shape.
Coat condition, hair type, density, climate, nutrition and health
are some of the variables that affect a dog’s coat.
Your expectations are too! You
know whether or not you have the patience or time to groom your own dog.
Do not groom when stressed. Sometimes,
it is easier to have a Professional Groomer do it.
Grooming helps to
keep the skin and coat healthy.
It gives you an opportunity to engage in some quality time with
your dog. You can explore your dog's
body for lumps, bumps and nodules that may need attention. It
is a tremendous boost to the dog's self-esteem when people come up to
them, pet them and say, "you look
marvelous".
Getting
or have a new puppy? Check out our free puppy seminars
(Events). Registration is necessary. Check for dates and
availability. Consider our book, Train
Your Dog, Change Your Life, Wiley & Sons, 2001.
This book is an integral part of our Basics-I training classes and
beyond. You'll learn a lot about yourself in the process of training
your dog!
Excerpt
taken from Train Your Dog, Change Your
Life
by Maureen Ross and Gary
Ross, Howell Book House, Wiley Inc., 2001.
~ Breathe in fresh oxygen ~ Breathe out
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