Dogs w Dogs

Dogs with Dogs (and other species)

DOG WITH DOGS (Sorry, no Guarantee)

First things first. The most important thing for you and your dog(s) are that s/he be well socialized and people friendly.  Socialization is a lifelong process.  It has a beginning.  It has no end.

Given today’s society is it a necessity that your dog be dog friendly?  No.  Is it a good idea?  Absolutely!  Just take a walk around town.  We live in a rural/suburban setting with primarily single family dwellings on 1+ acre lots.  When we take our dogs for a walk, we hear other dogs, but generally don’t see them.  Or, we see them behind electronic fencing, so if they come to greet us, they get shocked.  This isn’t such a good association to have with children, adults or other dogs.  On rare occasions we see dogs walking with owners on flexi-leads or leashes.  This is great.  Others are off-leash, which isn’t “walking etiquette” and can be unsafe for the dog(s). 

From sharing with other dog people around the country this appears to be the rule rather than the exception in suburbia.  In urban areas, a different guideline applies.  The expanse of multifamily dwellings and the absence of individual yards require walking your dogs for both elimination and exercise.  Even in this environment, dog to dog interaction can be limited.  All activity, at least in speculation, is on lease, unless we visit the “dog park”, in which case all of our dog’s socialization skills come into play.

Like socialization with people, dog to dog socialization is a lifelong process.  In addition, there are no guarantees that your dog will cozy up to another with a playbow and friendly wag!  Many of us do an admirable job starting out.  We go to puppy school and seek out lots of supervised social training and interactions with a number other “safe” dogs.  At approximately six months to a year, we stop, assuming that the pup should now instinctively know what comes next behaviorally in life!  Sounds exaggerated?  It isn’t.  Just ask any dog trainer or behaviorist how many calls they receive regarding behavioral problems for dogs that are one and two years old.  Do some research at the local MSPCA.  The numbers will shock you!  And, it’s very disheartening to see so many beautiful, potentially delightful canine companions wasted to euthanasia and/or bounced from one home to another due to misunderstandings about their “natural” behaviors or “conditioned by the owner” negative behaviors.

At one year of age, a dog is developmentally equivalent to a 15-year-old teenager.  Would any of us drop the curtain on all boundaries and teaching experiences for a 15 year old human teenager?  Would any of us say, “okay, you’re in high school now, so you’re on your own”?  Of course not!  That would be giving a teenager two many options to choose from leading them down some dangerous pathways that they could have avoided if they had continued mentoring form wiser adults.

Unfortunately, when most dogs hit adolescence, dog to dog socialization goes down hill because of this illusion that they we have done our “jobs” and that our dogs will get along with anyone.  In reality, it can be a shocking wake-up call the first time our dog rolls another dog face first in the sand.  It is true that size is may initially be irrelevant as a 5lb. Yorkie can turn a 140 lb. Newfie into a sniveling bag of snot with a glance (eye contact).  However, dogs go through critical turning points in their maturation.  That 135 lb. Newfie may accept this York’s leadership at 4 months, but disdain it at 1 year old.  It is not a chance you want to take because brawn and size will win.   

 There is an imperative time in a pup’s life where social training should be honored.  That is between 8 and 16 weeks.  Puppies should be allowed to interact without human intervention (pulling on the leash, saying no).  They learn behaviors from one another that are essential for adulthood like when to acquiesce (back off) or yawn to relieve stress.  Pups learn to rollover, play and understand calming signals that are essential for a dog to survive while playing in a pack.  This play should be supervised and last for no longer than 10 or 15 minutes at a time.  Otherwise, all housetraining is lost while puppies play, then eliminate freestyle.

 At a year old, the dog is going into a phase of change that needs even more positive reinforcing and socializing with dogs and people AND in different locales.  You have built the foundation of this house, but haven’t put any rooms, furniture or appliances in!  During adolescence and throughout all stages of a dog’s life, they must be continually socialized.  Their confidence needs to be buoyed, spirits reassured and new training techniques introduced to keep it motivating.  Unless we are this vigilant, problems can develop even amongst blended siblings (multiple dog households).

Dogs play!  Sometimes they argue.  Some dogs are quite content to never see another dog, while others prefer the connection, stimulation and play.  Our personal opinion comes straight from Noah.  We believe it’s pleasing to have two of any species, so that they know that there is someone like them around.  This doesn’t necessarily mean they will get along, but it makes us feel good!

The key, like for most of us, is if the dogs have learned how to argue and/or play effectively without receiving or inflicting serious injury.  Controlling the play does this.  Dogs learn this from other dogs that are savvy at the “game” and have good “calming signals”. 

Humans can teach this by stopping the game every few minutes.  Gain control by having them do some “doggy pushups”.  Reward them for taking the time to “pawse” and pay attention to you.  Then, let them resume playing.  This teaches the difference between appropriate and inappropriate behaviors.

Sage teaching Casidy a bit of bite inhibition (softly please)!

DOGS WITH CATS

Dogs and cats can co-habituate quite well if introduced slowly and on their terms, not ours.  Be mindful that some dogs will always like to “chase” cats or “fast moving” objects.  The good news is that most cats run a lot “faster” than dogs.  If they don’t and you have even the slightest bit of doubt, then don’t chance it!

The introduction of any species to another species (including within the same species) is relatively the same: use common sense, go slow and begin on neutral territory.  Do your homework before you impulsively bring the cat, bird, hamster or pot bellied pig home.  For example:  don’t assume that your 8 year old Airedale wants a companion because you think it is a good idea.  You might want to ask him first. The reality is that some dogs and cats are quite content to live in a “sole” dog or cat household.

      Our opinion is that most dogs and cats enjoy the company of at least one other dog and/or cat.  It is common to ride by barns and see horses outside mulling alongside their goat “buddy”.  This is particularly true if you intend to be absent for the majority of the day. 

Use common sense and the helpful hints for a safe introduction.  Ask friends who have done this successfully.  If you decide to introduce a kitten into the family, have a baby gate up so the kitten can view the household.  Otherwise, keep them confined for periods of time in the bathroom.  A “Vari-kennel” is an excellent way to slowly desensitize the kitten to dog and vise versa.  Allow short “look-see” sessions with the kitten safely confined in the Vari-kennel.

As you progress and the kitten gets a little older, allow more exploration.  Leave doors open so the kitten can safely get away (escape route) to a basement or bedroom.  No one gets hurt because no one gets trapped.  Cats have claws and dogs have big teeth.   We are not suggesting that you allow the cats and dogs to duke it out because a dog could lose an eye and a cat could get squashed.  It shouldn’t escalate to this if you have planned carefully and are managing the situation with boundaries and leadership.  Do your homework in advance and prepare the environment that they will share.  Both dogs and cats should have a “hideaway”.  Cats will find their own.  Both should have a pack leader … you!

As with bringing a human baby home from the hospital, try to not suddenly change your current companion’s routine any more than is necessary.  Maintain a consistent schedule and give the same quality attention as you did prior to the new arrival.  As with a human baby introduction, it is sage to first introduce your dog to a stuffed kitten, taped meows and then perhaps to a friend’s cat who is use to dogs.  See what kind of reaction you get.

      Generally, well-socialized dogs accept cats and vice-versa.  We say “generally” because every circumstance will predicate a difference response.  Cats will tolerate and very often enjoy “brief” encounters with a dog.  We have three cats and four dogs.  They will share a dognapper one-minute and chase each other around the next.  It can be unpredictable, but seldom dangerous.  They instinctively respect and/or tolerate one another’s presence and, at times, thrive on it!  If your dogs have been socialized and introduced prior to bringing home a kitten, your chances of a “warm and cozy” friendship, or at least, respectful living arrangements will be greater.

1.      Neonatal (birth to 2 weeks)

2.      Transitional (2 to 3 weeks).

3.      Socialization (3 to 13 weeks).

4.      Adolescence (13 weeks to 6-months).

5.      Adulthood.