Aggression-Intro, not a Diagnosis

Aggression:  An Intro!

What is aggression?

Aggression is defined as threats or harmful actions directed toward another individual.  In animals, aggressive behaviors are a means of communication.  Dogs (and cats) use aggressive displays, threats and attacks to resolve competitive disputes over resources (perceived territory, food, toys) or to increase their reproductive potential.  “Aggression” describes the behavior, but does not give any information about underlying motives or causes.  Aggressions can have multiple motivations.

 How is Aggression Classified?

    Aggression can be subdivided into type based on intended victim, body postures during aggression, and other factors such as what the animal may want, estrus status of animals involved, and location of the aggressive encounter (i.e. territorial): Dominance (status) related, possessive, protective & territorial, predatory, fear induced, pain induced, parental, redirected, play, intermale, interfemale and pathophysiological (medical) in origin. 

    Ethologists, persons who study animal behavior, use the term “agonistic” to refer to the behavior of animals (usually of the same species) that involves conflict or contest.  These encounters can involve fighting, escape, dominant and submissive gestures and posturing.  Aggressive behavior can also be divided into offensive and defensive aggression.  In dogs and cats the supposed function of the aggression is most commonly used as the basis of classification:

    Note that there is no one single cause of aggression.  Many factors and stimuli may combine to push the dog or cat to a point where aggression is displayed.  For example, a dog may be territorial as well as fearful of children.  This dog can only exhibit aggression however when it is cornered or tied up and cannot escape, and a strange child comes onto the dog’s property.  When the dog learns that snaps or growls are effective at chasing the child away, the behavior may be repeated in other situations.

 Are Aggressive Dogs and Cats Abnormal?

    Aggressive behaviors may be “normal”, but when they result in human or animal injury, the behavior is dangerous and unacceptable.  Human safety must always be a primary consideration when discussing aggression.  More than 2 million bite wounds occur annually across North America.  Many people are bitten by animals they own or know.  Many cover it up by saying things like, “the dog didn’t mean it.”  Oh, they meant it and humans need to heed the message.  More often then not, a dog will give several warning signals with body language, looks and/or moving away.  It is important to be able to identify aggressive dogs and cats (and their body language/signals) to prevent injuries wherever possible.

   Some aggression in dogs and cats may have abnormal components and be the result of genetics, disease conditions ranging from hormonal imbalances to organ disease, environmental influences or experience and learning.  Yes, aggression is a LEARNED BEHAVIOR. 

   I agree with Dr. Patricia McConnell (Other End of the Leash, author, TV personality) and Dr. Ian Dunbar (founder of APDT, Association of Pet Dog Trainers and renowned British Veterinarian, Behaviorist, and author, TV, video) that dominance is genetic.  However, temperament and aggressive behavior are shaped and learned behaviors.

   In my opinion, I believe that some dogs can be more aggressive by nature.  They are driven or hardwired by breed specific characteristics.  It is a combination of genetics, hard-wired drives (chase, prey, fight, flight, freeze, appease), individuality and SHAPING by humans and the environment.  Nature, nurture, lack of socialization and inexperience are contributing factors.  The dog’s lifestyle plays a role.  When a dog’s lifestyle changes, so do the circumstances on how s/he responds.  Dogs get stressed out.  Dogs respond differently to change than humans.  Some are more resilient than others.  How humans project stress and emotions onto our dogs is a whole book! 

    Degenerative changes and/or illness can cause a dog or cat to change.  Be mindful of this around children and recovering dogs/cats and/or older pets.  When they hurt, they have to communicate it.  Lip lifting, exposing a canine, warning growls or getting up to move away are clear signs that the dog or cat wants to be left alone.  Honor this!

 How do Dogs Communicate their Aggressive Behaviors?

    By watching the body postures and facial expressions of dogs, it is possible to find an indication of what the dog may do.  When a dog is reacting to intrusion, the first sign may be eye contact as when two dogs meet.  In some cases, the more dominant dog will maintain eye contact, until the more subordinate dog looks away.

     Prolonged eye contact may be considered a threat by both dominant and subordinate dogs.  Dogs that are acting subordinate by looking away may feel threatened by continued eye contact and bite out of fear.  A dominant and/or assertive dog can react to continued eye contact by holding the stare and escalating its aggressive threat.  In some dogs, a dark iris or hair occluding the eyes may make eye contact difficult to ascertain.

 What Happens Next?

    If the dog believes the intrusion is continuing, the dog may escalate the threat by exposing the teeth and snarling.  Snarling is not always accompanied by growling and may only be an upward movement of the lips.  Long pendulous lips, long hair or beards on the face may obscure seeing such lip movements.  Ear position in dogs can also give clues to canine intentions.  A subordinate dog will usually place the ears back as will a fearful dog.  An assertive dog will have ears erect.  Again, visualization of these positions can be inhibited by conformation, coat and cosmetic surgery.

    Dogs will also attempt to change the way they position their body in reaction to a perceived threat.  A dog standing its ground tries to look “bigger” by raising the hair along the neck and back (pilo erection), raising the tail in a high position and slowly wagging its tail from side-to-side.   Other dogs attempt to look “smaller” by crouching down, tucking the tail between their legs and even rolling over.  Crouching and a lowered body posture in dogs is an appeasement posture designed to decrease the aggressive threat.  While maintaining either of these postures, a dog may be growling, snarling or barking.  These postures can result in a standoff, a decrease or an increase in the aggression.

 What does an Aggressive Cat Look Like?

    Often the first sign is a dilation of the pupils (the dark part of the eye) and rapid lateral movements of the tail.  This may be accompanied by putting the ears back and hissing or growling.  In addition, the cat may “swipe” at the intruder with a front paw, either with the claws sheathed or exposed.  Sometimes the cat will gather its legs under and appear ready to pounce.  If the intruder is not too close, or begins to leave, the aggressive encounter may end. 

   Cats have other more dramatic body postures that signal, “go away”.  Cats frequently try to enhance their size and ferocity to make the threat more menacing (puff up).  They will do this by turning sideways to the intruder, arching their back, holding the tail upright or straight down, and having their fur stand up.  They may hiss, growl and yowl at the same time.  In other situations, a cat may crouch down; tail swishing back and forth with the ears tight against the head, again with accompanying vocalization.  A cat anticipating a fight may roll onto its back with claws extended ready to fend off a foe.

 How should I respond to these behaviors?

    The distance between the animal and the perceived intruder can be influential in determining response.  This is often called the “flight” distance.  If the intrusion is far away the animal may choose to flee, but if the intrusion is very close the animal may choose to fight.  If flight is inhibited, as in a dog or cat that is cornered or tied up, aggression or fight is likely to occur.  Most dogs, and some cats, on their own territory are more likely to fight than retreat.  When approached rapidly, a dog or cat may go through the stages of aggressive behavior very quickly and bite without the intruder being able to react.  This happens in encounters between people and their pets because they may approach too close, too fast.  This happens in dog-to-dog interactions when owners are not AWARE, relax, and allow the dog to lunge at another dog. 

    Dogs and cats that are mildly fearful may calm down if the intruder shows no fear, waits until pet settles, and then offers a food reward.  Reaching for a dog or cat, while continuing to advance is most likely to lead to aggression.  Standing still is often the best way to reduce aggression in the dog that is chasing.  Cats will often flee if given the opportunity.  However, some cats will stand their ground and will scratch or bite if reached for.

    Leaning over or backing a fearful dog into a corner is senseless.  It is a set-up for attack.  Good dog manners, dog-to-dog, AND human-to-dog is from the side and no direct and staring eye-contact.  Of course, family dogs that are well socialized and trusted may be fine with this approach.  Observe dogs with dogs on TV or in parks.  Observe wolves.  You will notice that dogs meet and greet from the side and sniff (a lot).  Frontal approaches are not “polite”.  Pyramiding (dog on dog shoulder) is a dominant display.   Best approach for humans, side and when in doubt, keep your distance.

    In some cases, despite standing still, keeping your distance or retreating, the aggression continues.  Since aggression depends on the situation, the pet’s level of motivation, previous experiences and the type of aggression, it will be necessary for you to provide a detailed history to your veterinarian / behaviorist so an accurate diagnosis and appropriate treatment plan can be established. 

     Your reaction to your dog, pulling on the leash, or harsh corrections, can actually exacerbate a dog’s tendency to protect or lunge at another dog.  Be pro-active, not reactive.  If it has happened once, chances are it will happen again.  Knowing this, you can take precautions.

    When in doubt, and until you have a solid modification, with an experienced behaviorist, avoid situations where aggressive behavior and/or attacks can occur.  Managing the dog (or cat) is essential.  Some dogs, for example, may have to be managed for a lifetime.  This means being aware of situations and/or avoiding interactions that are in question.  The old adage applies:  when in doubt, err on the side of caution.   

    Contact your veterinarian and/or referral, be honest with the history that you have and make a commitment to behavior modification.  This involves a safe interaction, a distance away from another dog team under the supervision of a trained behaviorist.

   Be mindful of what you reinforce.  If you have been doing the same thing repeatedly, expecting different results, you are setting you (and your dog) up for failure.  Something has to change.  The dog is confused. 

    When you are walking with your dog and an oncoming dog approaches, arch and/or turn away.  There is no need to go head-on.  You are the pack leader and you can decide which direction to go.  You can tell others to keep their distance.  It is your choice and very often, the best one for your dog.

    SIT and WATCH-ME are two MUST HAVE commands.  The dog should look to you as a trusted and respected pack leader; one who knows how to give direction and set-the-tone. 

    If you, children or anyone else, laugh at this behavior, especially when a dog is a puppy, you are teaching the behavior.  A lunging puppy may be cute; you may be looking for a protective dog, BUT and adult dog who does not know the difference between friend and foe is a confused, sad dog.  They are generally reprimanded too late for something they truthfully, thought they should be doing.

    If you notice your dog looking calmly at another dog, THIS IS THE TIME TO SAY, “good.”  Not when they are growling or gearing up for the lunge.  If you have an “unpredictable lunger”, keep them on no more than a 3-foot traffic lead, close to your body and stay FOCUSED. 

    When if doubt, avoid the situation and help your dog to avoid it.  Dogfights are not pleasant.  Humans (and children) can get hurt.  Many wonderful dogs are euthanized every year due to lack of continued training and socialization.  Integration of training and behavior shaping is a lifelong commitment.  The key is awareness, education and relationship.  Know you dog, be a good pack leader, train and breathe! 

    Stressful situations, or after the aggressive response, is not the optimum time to train for obvious reasons; the damage done.  Be mindful, be aware, be proactive, positively train and BREATHE!